Making the Best of the Wurst

My culinary school career lasted all of about seven months. Make no mistake; I left scarred from the experience. Garde Manger was the final class requirement (my final culinary class indefinitely) before one got trusted into a professionally kitchen for 6 months to see who would sink or swim on back across the Hudson river to the safety of cooking “school’.” Under the umbrella of Garde Manger falls canapés, soups, salads, sausages, etc. The layout of the textbook was beautiful and the course itineraries appeared innovative. On the first day of class, the students, save for one, were seated awaiting roll call. As the second hand hit the minute, a tall man with a perfectly ironed jacket, a neckerchief, and black socks that matched the black in his Dansko shoes appeared in the doorway. When he walked in he starred all of us in the eyes with a cool face and began to speak . . . out came a voice that wasn’t native to this country - it sounded more like the one belonging to Dr. Strangelove of the movie Dr. Strangelove, or, How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb. Just in case you aren’t familiar, Dr. Strangelove is war time advisor for America who suffers from diagonistic apraxia, or alien hand syndrome.

As he started his lesson, the final member of our class walked in three minutes late. Like in the movie I could just see his afflicted hand ball into a fist as he gracefully inquired who this student was and why he thought it was okay to enter a class that had already begun. The rant continued for 5 minutes until the kid decided to walk out directly to the scheduling office to drop the class entirely. Yes this was the man from whom I originally learned how to emulsify sausage. A man who’s high pitch, German accented voice would bleat belittlingly insults, jabbing at your confidence. He was also a believer in nutmeg, so much so that he carried a mini microplane and piece of nutmeg around in his pocket.

         Needless to say I thought, in homage, an abomination of everything German would be appropriate.

Tonight’s Menu:

Hot Dog Pretzel on a Stick with Homemade Mustard and Pickles

Weisswurst Sausage with Beet Kraut and Chicken Fat Aioli Potato Salad

Warning: never try to make an emulsified sausage without a grinder or food processor. I tried and failed miserably just because I wanted to prove you could.

1 Michael Ruhlman & Brian Polcyn Hot Dog Recipe

1 Alton Brown Homemade Soft Pretzel Recipe:

1.5 c (110 degree Water)

1T Sugar

2t Kosher Salt

1 Package Active Dry Yeast

22 oz All-Purpose Flour

2 oz Unsalted Butter, Melted

Vegetable Oil

10 c Water

2/3 c Baking Soda

1 Large Egg beaten with 1 T water

Pretzel Salt

For the Mustard:

1 c Yellow Mustard Seeds, Whole

½ c Brown Mustard Seeds, Whole

3 c Water

1 c Champagne Vinegar

½ c White Wine Vinegar

1T Kosher Salt

For the Pickle:

10 Pickling Cucumbers

3T kosher salt

2 c White Wine Vinegar

1 c Water

3 Garlic Cloves

1 Bunch Dill

5 All-Spice Berries, Toasted

5 Black Pepper Berries, Toasted

1 Bay Leaf

Make the sausage. As I mentioned, I tried hand chopping in hopes of creating an alternative emulsification process but, FAILED. The same day I rested my meat with the salt mix I also began my mustard and pickles. To start the mustard, pour both seeds into a Kerr jar with the water. Cover the jar and leave to soak in the refrigerator for 48 hours. The same day you may also wash and clean your cucumbers. Once dry, add the salt and work it into the cucumbers. Cover and leave out 24 hours.

 You can also mix your pickle liquid ahead of time as well. Combine all remaining ingredients except for dill in a pot and bring to a boil on the stove. Taste it to see if you want to add anything else. Cool the liquid down and store in the refrigerator.

After 24 hours, rinse the cucumbers and place both them and the dill in the pickle liquid. After 48 hours continue making the sausage.

You may also drain and rinse off your mustard seeds. Simply place the drained mustard seeds in a blender, cover with the remaining ingredients and puree until smooth. The mustard will be spicy at first but the longer it sits the mellower it becomes.

While your dogs are smoking, start your pretzel. 

Combine water, sugar, and kosher salt in the bowl of a mixer and sprinkle yeast over this mixture. Let sit 5 minutes. Add the flour and butter. Mix on low with the hook attachment. On medium, knead until dough is smooth - about 5 minutes. Place dough in oiled bowl and let sit for 1 hour. Preheat oven to 450F. Bring 10 cups water and baking soda to boil. Roll out dough and wrap your hot dog. Blanch pretzel dog in the boiling water for 30 seconds. Place on oiled sheet tray. Brush with egg mixture and bake until golden brown - about 12 minutes or so.

Enjoy!

For the Wurst

1 Michael Ruhlman & Brain Polcyn “Emulsified Sausage Master Recipe: Weisswurst”

For the kraut:

3 Golden Beets, Large

4 T Kosher Salt

For the Salad:

2 Yukon Potatoes, Large

1 Celery Stalk

½ White Onion

2 Egg Yolks

1.5c Canola Oil

1t Champagne Vinegar

1t Homemade Mustard

1 Garlic Clove

3T Chicken Fat

Make the kraut. Shred or julienne the beets. Work in the salt by squeezing the mixture in your hands. Leave out for 1 week in warm spot.

Make the sausage.

For the salad: wash and cube the potatoes into chunks. Pour cold water over them just until covered and bring to a simmer on the stove in salted water (more then you think you need) and about 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Cook until tender and cool potatoes at room temperature.

Make your aioli. Place egg yolks, mustard and vinegar in a blender on low speed. Drizzle in, drop by drop, the canola oil. In the same fashion, drizzle in the chicken fat. At the end add the garlic on medium speed until completely disintegrated. Small dice the onion and celery. Dress potatoes, celery, and onion in the aioli and let sit for at least 20 minutes.    

     

Sausage Take 2

I was excited for the second helping of the sausage challenge after the first one was literally a ‘bust’ (broken sausage stuffer.) Yes, my sausage stuffer was down and out, but, as luck would have it this challenge was the one where we had to actually stuff sausage. Duh? I mean I knew that. I was privy to it the whole time . . . well not so much, but whatever…

Tonight’s menu:

 Waldorf Sausage: Rouge Creamery ‘Cave Man Bleu Cheese’ and Chicken Sausage on a French Baguette with Mayo spread Topped with Celery, Grapes, Apple, and Toasted Walnuts. 

Summer Corn and Italian Sausage Soup with Basil and Avocado   

            Now the proud owner of a ‘hank’ (144ft.) of casings I needed to think of some innovative fillings. After all I don’t think casings have a high re-sale value – at least I couldn’t find a Craigslist heading that seemed appropriate. I may even end up stuffing Halloween candy into them for next year.

            Poultry sausage is not exactly on the top of my list. On the other hand, the idea of exchanging the pork fat for some other fat was intriguing enough. I mulled over all the plausible animal fat substitutes but none seemed suitable. Racking my head for ‘alternative’ fat replacements: oil, eggs, YES – CHEESE! I would try to make a Waldorf Salad - no - Waldorf SAUSAGE.

Recipe for Success:

2 Chicken Thighs (approx. 2.5 lbs.) boneless, skinless, well marbled

2 Garlic Cloves, minced

1T Fresh Dill, Chopped

2 t Fresh Tarragon, Chopped

½ T Parsley, Chopped

2T Fleur de Sel

2 cracks White Pepper Mill

2 cracks Black Pepper Mill

Zest of 1 Lemon

1T Champagne Vinegar

t.t. Rouge River Cave Man Blue Cheese (I added about 3 oz)

1 French Baguette

1 Celery Stalk, Brunoise

1 Granny Smith Apple, Batonette

10 ea Red Grapes, Quartered

t.t Mayonnaise

.05lbs Raw Walnuts

Walnut oil (optional)

Make your sausage - cube your chick thighs into medium dice and pop them into the freezer. When the chicken is semi-frozen combine all remaining ingredients (except the cheese) in the bowl with the semi-frozen chicken. Work the mixture to distribute all the spice evenly. Grind through once on a Kitchen Aid and cook a tester to check for seasoning. When you're ready to stuff your sausage add the bleu cheese (Note: all of my sausage ingredients are cold.) Work and spread the cheese out evenly to resemble sausage marbling. Now your filling is ready to stuff into the casing. This recipe yields roughly 6 - 3” sausage links.

Next, sauté one link over medium flame until golden brown and delicious. Once the internal temperature is 165F remove from the heat and rest the meat in the pan. While the pan is resting toast your raw walnuts in a 400F oven for about 10 minutes until aromatic. While the walnuts are roasting prepare your fruits/vegetables and make your mayonnaise: 1 egg yolk to 1 c of canola oil, 1 t of Dijon mustard and salt and pepper to taste. If you don’t know how to make a mayonnaise, start by whisking your yolk with the Dijon slowly (drop by drop); whisking in your oil and only adding more once you have fully incorporated the previous oil drop completely.

            Once your walnuts are ready, toss them with a bit of walnut oil while still hot and season lightly with both salt and sugar. Slice and toast a piece of baguette and start plating: first a ‘schmear’ of mayo topped with celery.  Next, the quartered grapes, sausage, then top with the apple and walnuts. YUMMY! This sausage left such a great taste in my mouth you best believe there will be more like it to follow.

Next: the soup and sausage portion of the meal.

3 ears of yellow corn

2 T butter

t.t. salt

t.t. Black pepper

1 MICHAEL RUHLMAN Special Italian Sausage  

Garnish:

Avocado cut in half-moon shape

Tomato, brunoise

Genovese Basil Tips

Reserve Corn Kernels (roasted)

First make your sausage using the recipe in Michael Ruhlman book, "Charcuterie"

Visual Aid Fast Forward

Okay, so I usually encounter one or two problems and this time it was my casings. I must have been off because it took me three tries to not tear them.

This soup embodies summer for me. There is no smoke and mirrors here so only prepare this soup when you can obtain the best summer corn. Still a bit early in the season, I walked past a ‘luck would have it’ awesome display of corn and after what I call “self serve sampling”, found it was delicious. First reserve about 2 T of the whole raw corn kernels. The second key to this soup is the way of “milking” the corn and involves a single use kitchen tool called a ‘corn creamer’. Usually I’m not a fan of the single use items but I thought I should use it because it was already in my possession. What is does: scrape the seed and part of the husk to yield both the liquid and solids of the corn. Now this starchy job can get a bit messy and so I prefer to use it in the sink. 

When you are finished, place the raw scraped corn ears into a pot and fill with just enough water to cover them. Simmer over medium heat for 25 minutes – corn stock is a way to thin your soup without losing flavor. This recipe yields about 1 pint of soup so try to work as clean as possible in catching all of the solids and liquids.

Next, transfer your hard work into a Vita Prep blender and puree on high until smooth. Strain the soup using your finest slotted strainer. Pop the reserved raw corn kernels on a tray and place in a 375F oven and roast until brown - about 10 minutes. While the kernels are roasting, transfer your soup into a small pot and place over medium heat while stirring frequently. Note: if left unstirred too long, the starches will be quick to stick to the bottom of the pot and burn.

Sauté your sausages until golden brown all over. While your sausage is resting add butter to your soup while you are stirring, being careful to dissolve all of the butter into the warm soup. If your soup is too thick add some of your corn stock to thin it out.

Now we are ready to plate up. Serve your soup in a warm bowl because it’s so much more delightful. Ladle in your soup then sprinkle your garnish on top then enjoy!

Breakfast Sausage and Bunny for Brunch (I Love Springtime)

An Ode to Spring:

“How do I love thee? Let me count the ways.”

I love thee longingly, foraging underneath thy sun

I love thee swimmingly, the salmon that just now run

I love thee patiently, thy bounty within my beds just sprung

I love thee tenderly, as I braise, deep fry and cook thy young  

Spring has sprung and it's delicious! 

Okay so my ode to spring may not be all-inspiring. Humor was a must with all of the "happenstances" I encountered during this challenge.

What happened?

24 hour power outage (mid sausage stuffing)

Sausage stuffer broke (simultaneous to power outage)

Dry-cured chorizo sausage caught harmful mold (threw out all my chorizo)

Enough excuses - I salvaged what I could. . .

The Menu:

Suckling Chorizo Terrine with Baguette and Radish Salad

Breakfast Sausage with Buttermilk Fried Rabbit on Wild Rice Waffle with Candy Cap Mushroom Syrup     

Originally I tried to go for the gold. I made a traditional, Espelette pepper, dry cured chorizo. I ground the pork shoulder added my seasonings and loaded the sausage stuffer then “click” - the lights went out. Awesome. . . not! Stuffing sausage during a blackout by candle light, is not as romantic as it my sound.
I went with it, however, mid-way through, like a tire bursting mid-acceleration, my sausage stuffer had a blow out. Alone in the dark I decided to take what I got out of ole’ reliable, freeze the remaining stuffing, and call it a day.

I formed the links the next afternoon under the unnatural (yet comforting) glow of my florescent lights and placed my chorizo to hang. Beautiful!

  

Well it WAS beautiful until I went to cook with it the other week. . . blue green mold! NOOOO . . . TRASHED IT!
Alas there was still chorizo I saved waiting for me in my freezer!
I would make a spring time terrine – a suckling pork chorizo terrine to be exact.

Working with suckling pig is amazing! Different – but amazing! I would strongly recommend the investment. On the other hand, perhaps an older more developed whole shoulder muscle of pig, like the one I used, would be better suited to grinding. The shoulder is said to exist in a textbook 80 percent lean meat to 20 percent fat ratio. An ideal that lends itself , perfectly, to making fantastic sausage.

Onward with the recipe for success . . .

1 Suckling Pig (25-40 pounds)

1Head Garlic, halved (root removed)

1 Onion, peeled and quartered

1 quart Milk

1 Gallon Chicken Stock

1Tablespoon Black Peppercorns, Toasted

10-15 Sprigs English Thyme (4 inch long sprigs)

1 cup Chopped Parsley

2 quarts Chorizo Sausage

3 Radishes

½ cup flat leaf parsley

to taste Verjus

to taste Salt

to taste Pepper

Place a large sauté pan or a very shallow large pot over moderate/high heat and canola oil to lightly coat bottom of pan. Remove the head from the suckling pig as well as the shoulder. Pat dry and lightly cover all the surfaces with salt. Place the salted and dry head into the pan followed by the shoulder pieces. Do not disturb the meat until it is golden brown (about 5 minutes) then rotate until golden brown on all sides.

When the meat is nearing its finish add your quartered onion and garlic. When everything in your pot is brown (not black) add 1 cup of the chicken stock to the pan and scrape loose all of the brown solids that remain on the bottom of the pan. Transfer the contents of your pan to a pot (if not already) then cover only half way up the height of the meat using a ratio of 4 parts chicken stock to each 1 part of milk. Use your judgment, I listed 1 quart of milk and 1 gallon of chicken stock, because to achieve my half way mark, in the pot I was using, meant that volume of total liquid. 

Toss your thyme, as well as, your peppercorns into the mix cover your pot with foil (or lid) then place into a 300 oven for 3-5 hours. The braise should be tender and falling off the bones however, still have integrity as meat should.  When your braise is done, pick the meat and skin from the bones and cool. Strain the braising liquid if any remains. Note that the milk will coagulate, however, you should be able to strain the coagulated parts out.

Remove the belly of the suckling pig and small dice. You are looking to have about 1quart of small dice belly in total.

Next fill an oven proof basin that will fit your terrine mold, with water. Remember to account for the displacement of the water that the terrine will create. You want the terrine mold to be completely surrounded by water on all four walls, yet not submerged or leaking inside of it. Place this basin in a 300 degree oven. Next line your terrine molds with plastic wrap.

Mix all of your braise, diced belly, chorizo sausage, and chopped parsley by hand until even distributed. Season with salt and pepper and cook off a patty to check for seasoning.

When everything is seasoned to your liking pack the meat mixer firmly into the lined terrine molds. Fold any overhanging plastic wrap over the top of the exposed meat then place the terrine lid on and return the filled terrine to the basin of water in the oven. Using a thermometer check the internal temperature every 20 minutes until it reached 145 then remove from the oven and let cool for 30 minutes at room temperature then completely cool under refrigeration.

By the following day you will be ready to un-mold and serve your terrine. Simply lift the plastic wrap and invert the mold to remove your terrine. Slice yourself a nice portion along with a couple of thick slices of a good baguette. Use a mandolin to slice the radishes then arrange your salad of radishes and parsley dressed with Verjus on the plate - toast your baguette in the oven and dig in!

 2-3 Rabbit Loins

1quart Buttermilk

2 Cups AP Flour

1 Roulade Breakfast sausage

1 cup sugar

1 cup water

1 cup Candy Cap Mushrooms, dried 

2/3 cup Wild Rice, Raw

2 cups chicken stock

2 cups AP Flour

1 ½ teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

1 ¾ cups Buttermilk

4 eggs, separated

1 teaspoon kosher salt

10 tablespoons butter, unsalted and melted

I have been trying to execute this dish for a while. I read about Tom Douglas’s wild rice waffles 2 years ago and was soo excited to "taste" them out. No time like the present! Tom Douglas paired them with salmon, but, I decided to welcome spring with bunny. Yeah I know, Americans aren’t use to bunny, perhaps because they are cute. Perhaps because it takes a lot of time to prepare the raw product, for not a lot of meat however, I promise you, fried bunny is the best way to induct this animal into your repertoire.

A word about the syrup – it’s super tasty! The syrup is sweet and aromatic without the fungal side of this fungus a "crowd-pleaser" - if you will. People will ask you time and time again if you made the syrup with maple syrup to which you will reply, "No! Vermont's maple trees got nothing on this mushroom." 

Alright time to cook:

First cut the rabbit loin into 1 inch lengths and marinate over night in 1 quart of buttermilk. The following day bring 1 c of sugar and 1 c of water to a simmer (simple syrup) then add 1 c of dried candy cap mushrooms – cover and leave to steep off the flame for 1 hour. Strain and reserve.

Simmer the wild rice in 2 cups of chicken stock until fully cooked. Strain the cooked rice and reserve. Mix flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Separately, mix buttermilk, yolks, melted butter, and wild rice. Next whisk the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients.  Whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Fold the whipped eggs whites into the batter being careful not to deflate the whites.

Follow the instructions for your waffle maker and cook your waffles. Hold them warm in a 250 degree oven. 

Heat fry oil to 350 degrees on the stove. Remove your rabbit from the buttermilk and roll in the flour (you may season your flour if you wish paprika, salt, thyme whatever.) Fry until golden brown and delicious looking!

Okay so as I mentioned my sausage stuffer is in the chop shop but I decided to make sausage anyway. I used plastic wrap to roll around instead of a casing. After which I poached the sausage and by the magic of meat proteins a sausage without a casing was made. Just go ahead and pat me on the back for that one because I’m still bummed about the broken equipment.

I sliced a portion from that sausage then seared it on one side for this application.

Okay enough lamenting - put your waffle down on the plate, top it with seared sausage and fried rabbit then drizzle over your candy cap mushroom syrup and enjoy! If you like buttery waffles you may find that seasoned butter mixed with english thyme leaves makes this dish even better!

This was truly a challenge for me but such is life! I learned everything is better when you have candy cap mushroom syrup in your belly. That was my cure this month!