People's Hearts and Pig's Pied

People's Hearts and Pig's Pied

I can not believe it has been another month!

This blog has not only been my personal challenge, but often time my connection with my family and friends on the east coast. I work crazy hours and often the call home never gets placed. Having the unconditional love and support from those in my life set the pillers to my life endeavors. Though often my endeavors are misunderstood, hence, “unconditional.”

When my Aunt Emily in her fast - talking, thick, Long Island (New York) accent tells me, “You know I read your blog thing. Your mom forwards the link every time you have a new one. I love it, but stop putting those kinds of pictures up. You know - with the Chicken IN the package, then the Chicken OUT of the package, enough with that! Why don’t you start putting something nice that people would like? I want to see pictures of people - I don’t care about mushrooms.”

I don’t know about you but I could not help the roaring laughter that followed. The kind of laughter that seizes every muscle in your body and resonates in your belly. I was laughing so hard my eyes swelled up in joy and when it was all over, every muscle in my body was pleasantly exhausted.

She’s right! We cure, we brine, we butcher and we’re excited to document it! We’re weirdoes, yes!

In her infinite wisdom she brought me 360 degrees back to the understanding that it’s about people too. It’s about the farmer – the age old family techniques – and knowing that we are not alone in our passion!    

Who knows what she’ll have to say about a terrine made out of pigs feet!

Tonight’s Menu:

Graham Cracker Liver Cherry “Cheese Cake”

Terrine de Pied  

I know the “Cheese Cake” sounds crazy.  However, my idea was a direct adaptation from a dish that my professional chef - friend, Kingsley Fuller made. Kinglsey’s was a warm Espelette pepper graham cracker foie pie. Deliciousness and decadence at their finest. Both are wonderful.

The Crust:

12 Graham Crackers

2.5 oz Butter, melted

¼ c Fine Sugar

1 T Brown Sugar

¼ t Fine Sea Salt

1T Quatre-espices (Black Pepper, Nutmeg, Ginger, and Clove)

The Chicken Liver Mousse:

4 oz Chicken Liver, purged by water

½ Sweet Walla Walla Onion, julienne

3 Cloves Garlic, micro-plane grated

1/3c Madeira

1c pork stock

3 sheets Gelatin

2 c Cream, whipped

The Cherry Topping:

1qt Bing Cherries, de-stemmed & pitted

1 T Sherry Balsamic Vinegar

1.25 sheets Gelatin

1 t fine Sea Salt

Start by making the crust. Preheat an oven to 350 degrees. Place all of crust ingredients into the robo coup and pulse until the contents look like wet sand. Spray your molds with cooking spray and press the mixture firmly into the bottom of individual ramekins. For this step I used a tamper to pack the crust firmly and flatly to the bottom. Bake for 10 minutes until golden brown and then cool for at least 20 minutes.

Pulse the de-stemmed and pitted cherries in the robo coup about 10 times. Transfer mixture to a strainer lined with cheese cloth, allowing the cherry juice to drip to a container. Once all of the juice has been collected, place half of the juice in a pan on the stove and reduce by half. Bloom the gelatin in cold water until pliable. Whisk the gelatin into the reduced cherry juice until it’s dissolved. Whisk the reduced juice with the remaining cherry juice.

Add the vinegar and salt. Keep in warm spot or over a low flame

Sauté the purged Chicken Livers in oil and butter. Once a caramelized fond appears in the pan then add your onions and garlic. Cook until aromatic and caramelized – but not burnt! Deglaze the pan with the Madeira and reduce by a third. Add the pork stock and reduce again by a third. Bloom your gelatin in cold water until pliable then whisk into the pan.

While the pan is at a light simmer, start to whip the cream in a kitchen aid or by hand. Transfer the contents of the pan to a blender and blend on high until smooth. Pass the mixture through a chinoise until there is a smooth texture. Fold equal parts whipped cream into chicken liver. Pour mixture on top of the crust into the ramekins. Place the ramekins in the refrigerator until the mousse is set – about 30 minutes to 1 hour.

After the mousse is set, dispense the cherry liquid over the top of the ramekins and return to the refrigerator to set up again for about 30 minutes.

When you’re ready to eat, you may try un-molding your ramekins or serving them, ‘as is’ to guests.

Enjoy!

The Terrine de Pied I made straight forward. I followed suit and brined the pigs’ feet in a mixture of cider vinegar, water and spices. I used the same tarragon, thyme, peppercorn, and garlic mixture to simmer the feet for 4 ½ hours. I didn’t have a traditional terrine mold so I opted for a bowl. You don’t have to be a Los Angeles plastic surgeon to notice what my terrine resembled once un-molded.

Another eventful challenge with familiar surprises! 

Making the Best of the Wurst

My culinary school career lasted all of about seven months. Make no mistake; I left scarred from the experience. Garde Manger was the final class requirement (my final culinary class indefinitely) before one got trusted into a professionally kitchen for 6 months to see who would sink or swim on back across the Hudson river to the safety of cooking “school’.” Under the umbrella of Garde Manger falls canapés, soups, salads, sausages, etc. The layout of the textbook was beautiful and the course itineraries appeared innovative. On the first day of class, the students, save for one, were seated awaiting roll call. As the second hand hit the minute, a tall man with a perfectly ironed jacket, a neckerchief, and black socks that matched the black in his Dansko shoes appeared in the doorway. When he walked in he starred all of us in the eyes with a cool face and began to speak . . . out came a voice that wasn’t native to this country - it sounded more like the one belonging to Dr. Strangelove of the movie Dr. Strangelove, or, How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb. Just in case you aren’t familiar, Dr. Strangelove is war time advisor for America who suffers from diagonistic apraxia, or alien hand syndrome.

As he started his lesson, the final member of our class walked in three minutes late. Like in the movie I could just see his afflicted hand ball into a fist as he gracefully inquired who this student was and why he thought it was okay to enter a class that had already begun. The rant continued for 5 minutes until the kid decided to walk out directly to the scheduling office to drop the class entirely. Yes this was the man from whom I originally learned how to emulsify sausage. A man who’s high pitch, German accented voice would bleat belittlingly insults, jabbing at your confidence. He was also a believer in nutmeg, so much so that he carried a mini microplane and piece of nutmeg around in his pocket.

         Needless to say I thought, in homage, an abomination of everything German would be appropriate.

Tonight’s Menu:

Hot Dog Pretzel on a Stick with Homemade Mustard and Pickles

Weisswurst Sausage with Beet Kraut and Chicken Fat Aioli Potato Salad

Warning: never try to make an emulsified sausage without a grinder or food processor. I tried and failed miserably just because I wanted to prove you could.

1 Michael Ruhlman & Brian Polcyn Hot Dog Recipe

1 Alton Brown Homemade Soft Pretzel Recipe:

1.5 c (110 degree Water)

1T Sugar

2t Kosher Salt

1 Package Active Dry Yeast

22 oz All-Purpose Flour

2 oz Unsalted Butter, Melted

Vegetable Oil

10 c Water

2/3 c Baking Soda

1 Large Egg beaten with 1 T water

Pretzel Salt

For the Mustard:

1 c Yellow Mustard Seeds, Whole

½ c Brown Mustard Seeds, Whole

3 c Water

1 c Champagne Vinegar

½ c White Wine Vinegar

1T Kosher Salt

For the Pickle:

10 Pickling Cucumbers

3T kosher salt

2 c White Wine Vinegar

1 c Water

3 Garlic Cloves

1 Bunch Dill

5 All-Spice Berries, Toasted

5 Black Pepper Berries, Toasted

1 Bay Leaf

Make the sausage. As I mentioned, I tried hand chopping in hopes of creating an alternative emulsification process but, FAILED. The same day I rested my meat with the salt mix I also began my mustard and pickles. To start the mustard, pour both seeds into a Kerr jar with the water. Cover the jar and leave to soak in the refrigerator for 48 hours. The same day you may also wash and clean your cucumbers. Once dry, add the salt and work it into the cucumbers. Cover and leave out 24 hours.

 You can also mix your pickle liquid ahead of time as well. Combine all remaining ingredients except for dill in a pot and bring to a boil on the stove. Taste it to see if you want to add anything else. Cool the liquid down and store in the refrigerator.

After 24 hours, rinse the cucumbers and place both them and the dill in the pickle liquid. After 48 hours continue making the sausage.

You may also drain and rinse off your mustard seeds. Simply place the drained mustard seeds in a blender, cover with the remaining ingredients and puree until smooth. The mustard will be spicy at first but the longer it sits the mellower it becomes.

While your dogs are smoking, start your pretzel. 

Combine water, sugar, and kosher salt in the bowl of a mixer and sprinkle yeast over this mixture. Let sit 5 minutes. Add the flour and butter. Mix on low with the hook attachment. On medium, knead until dough is smooth - about 5 minutes. Place dough in oiled bowl and let sit for 1 hour. Preheat oven to 450F. Bring 10 cups water and baking soda to boil. Roll out dough and wrap your hot dog. Blanch pretzel dog in the boiling water for 30 seconds. Place on oiled sheet tray. Brush with egg mixture and bake until golden brown - about 12 minutes or so.

Enjoy!

For the Wurst

1 Michael Ruhlman & Brain Polcyn “Emulsified Sausage Master Recipe: Weisswurst”

For the kraut:

3 Golden Beets, Large

4 T Kosher Salt

For the Salad:

2 Yukon Potatoes, Large

1 Celery Stalk

½ White Onion

2 Egg Yolks

1.5c Canola Oil

1t Champagne Vinegar

1t Homemade Mustard

1 Garlic Clove

3T Chicken Fat

Make the kraut. Shred or julienne the beets. Work in the salt by squeezing the mixture in your hands. Leave out for 1 week in warm spot.

Make the sausage.

For the salad: wash and cube the potatoes into chunks. Pour cold water over them just until covered and bring to a simmer on the stove in salted water (more then you think you need) and about 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Cook until tender and cool potatoes at room temperature.

Make your aioli. Place egg yolks, mustard and vinegar in a blender on low speed. Drizzle in, drop by drop, the canola oil. In the same fashion, drizzle in the chicken fat. At the end add the garlic on medium speed until completely disintegrated. Small dice the onion and celery. Dress potatoes, celery, and onion in the aioli and let sit for at least 20 minutes.    

     

Sausage Take 2

I was excited for the second helping of the sausage challenge after the first one was literally a ‘bust’ (broken sausage stuffer.) Yes, my sausage stuffer was down and out, but, as luck would have it this challenge was the one where we had to actually stuff sausage. Duh? I mean I knew that. I was privy to it the whole time . . . well not so much, but whatever…

Tonight’s menu:

 Waldorf Sausage: Rouge Creamery ‘Cave Man Bleu Cheese’ and Chicken Sausage on a French Baguette with Mayo spread Topped with Celery, Grapes, Apple, and Toasted Walnuts. 

Summer Corn and Italian Sausage Soup with Basil and Avocado   

            Now the proud owner of a ‘hank’ (144ft.) of casings I needed to think of some innovative fillings. After all I don’t think casings have a high re-sale value – at least I couldn’t find a Craigslist heading that seemed appropriate. I may even end up stuffing Halloween candy into them for next year.

            Poultry sausage is not exactly on the top of my list. On the other hand, the idea of exchanging the pork fat for some other fat was intriguing enough. I mulled over all the plausible animal fat substitutes but none seemed suitable. Racking my head for ‘alternative’ fat replacements: oil, eggs, YES – CHEESE! I would try to make a Waldorf Salad - no - Waldorf SAUSAGE.

Recipe for Success:

2 Chicken Thighs (approx. 2.5 lbs.) boneless, skinless, well marbled

2 Garlic Cloves, minced

1T Fresh Dill, Chopped

2 t Fresh Tarragon, Chopped

½ T Parsley, Chopped

2T Fleur de Sel

2 cracks White Pepper Mill

2 cracks Black Pepper Mill

Zest of 1 Lemon

1T Champagne Vinegar

t.t. Rouge River Cave Man Blue Cheese (I added about 3 oz)

1 French Baguette

1 Celery Stalk, Brunoise

1 Granny Smith Apple, Batonette

10 ea Red Grapes, Quartered

t.t Mayonnaise

.05lbs Raw Walnuts

Walnut oil (optional)

Make your sausage - cube your chick thighs into medium dice and pop them into the freezer. When the chicken is semi-frozen combine all remaining ingredients (except the cheese) in the bowl with the semi-frozen chicken. Work the mixture to distribute all the spice evenly. Grind through once on a Kitchen Aid and cook a tester to check for seasoning. When you're ready to stuff your sausage add the bleu cheese (Note: all of my sausage ingredients are cold.) Work and spread the cheese out evenly to resemble sausage marbling. Now your filling is ready to stuff into the casing. This recipe yields roughly 6 - 3” sausage links.

Next, sauté one link over medium flame until golden brown and delicious. Once the internal temperature is 165F remove from the heat and rest the meat in the pan. While the pan is resting toast your raw walnuts in a 400F oven for about 10 minutes until aromatic. While the walnuts are roasting prepare your fruits/vegetables and make your mayonnaise: 1 egg yolk to 1 c of canola oil, 1 t of Dijon mustard and salt and pepper to taste. If you don’t know how to make a mayonnaise, start by whisking your yolk with the Dijon slowly (drop by drop); whisking in your oil and only adding more once you have fully incorporated the previous oil drop completely.

            Once your walnuts are ready, toss them with a bit of walnut oil while still hot and season lightly with both salt and sugar. Slice and toast a piece of baguette and start plating: first a ‘schmear’ of mayo topped with celery.  Next, the quartered grapes, sausage, then top with the apple and walnuts. YUMMY! This sausage left such a great taste in my mouth you best believe there will be more like it to follow.

Next: the soup and sausage portion of the meal.

3 ears of yellow corn

2 T butter

t.t. salt

t.t. Black pepper

1 MICHAEL RUHLMAN Special Italian Sausage  

Garnish:

Avocado cut in half-moon shape

Tomato, brunoise

Genovese Basil Tips

Reserve Corn Kernels (roasted)

First make your sausage using the recipe in Michael Ruhlman book, "Charcuterie"

Visual Aid Fast Forward

Okay, so I usually encounter one or two problems and this time it was my casings. I must have been off because it took me three tries to not tear them.

This soup embodies summer for me. There is no smoke and mirrors here so only prepare this soup when you can obtain the best summer corn. Still a bit early in the season, I walked past a ‘luck would have it’ awesome display of corn and after what I call “self serve sampling”, found it was delicious. First reserve about 2 T of the whole raw corn kernels. The second key to this soup is the way of “milking” the corn and involves a single use kitchen tool called a ‘corn creamer’. Usually I’m not a fan of the single use items but I thought I should use it because it was already in my possession. What is does: scrape the seed and part of the husk to yield both the liquid and solids of the corn. Now this starchy job can get a bit messy and so I prefer to use it in the sink. 

When you are finished, place the raw scraped corn ears into a pot and fill with just enough water to cover them. Simmer over medium heat for 25 minutes – corn stock is a way to thin your soup without losing flavor. This recipe yields about 1 pint of soup so try to work as clean as possible in catching all of the solids and liquids.

Next, transfer your hard work into a Vita Prep blender and puree on high until smooth. Strain the soup using your finest slotted strainer. Pop the reserved raw corn kernels on a tray and place in a 375F oven and roast until brown - about 10 minutes. While the kernels are roasting, transfer your soup into a small pot and place over medium heat while stirring frequently. Note: if left unstirred too long, the starches will be quick to stick to the bottom of the pot and burn.

Sauté your sausages until golden brown all over. While your sausage is resting add butter to your soup while you are stirring, being careful to dissolve all of the butter into the warm soup. If your soup is too thick add some of your corn stock to thin it out.

Now we are ready to plate up. Serve your soup in a warm bowl because it’s so much more delightful. Ladle in your soup then sprinkle your garnish on top then enjoy!